We played gin rummy with some cards that Jen Strong brought. Our group of four had June as our ticketmaster--so responsible! June, Jen Strong, Jenny Doan and me were all Js. The people on the train like to sleep so several people were shushed.
On the train, Chris came by to say that Friday would be "Jackie day" in Busan. I met with Dr. Park as he will be my host. He is from Busan. Later that evening, I had an overwhelming wash of emotion thinking about Friday. Yet I was able to swallow the tightness in my throat because we were heading out after dinner. It didn't feel like grief, more like an encounter with a mystery that stands on your chest while at the same time filling your heart with blood to cushion the impact. It felt a lot like disconnect. Being scattered.
I began scanning faces in Busan, but I had an odd feeling that I couldn't even remember accurately what I look like. It's more a negative sense, I can see who I don't look like. I felt bad when the hotel accommodations seemed sketchy to some in our group. There was bug spray in the rooms. I began to feel ownership of Busan--as if it were my hometown. I got choked up when Carolyn spoke at KAAN about the epiphany she had years ago on the train. She spoke of having the powerful sense that she once was and could still belong to this country. On some level it had belonged to her and she to it. But it does not any more.
The weather is very hot and humid, but it's not as oppressive as I anticipated. The fish market is close by the hotel but it's not as smelly as I thought it might be. The mountains surrounding the city are green. I was excited to try some cheese that looked like the creamy, salty cheese we used to eat in Japan as children--the kind of cheese that makes the mozzarella cheese sticks seem bland and stringy--but when I bit into the unrefrigerated stick, it made me gag and throw up a bit in the back of my throat. I hadn't realized that it was shrimp flavored. Unfortunate. 
A group headed to Pusan Tower after lunch and we meandered over stopping for snacks and a quick sale here and there. It was a delight to have the Nelson-Kennedys included in our group. I withdrew $$$ from an international ATM at the tower and it was weird to punch in my pass code and select savings and get yuan!!
Overlooking Busan from the tower on a clear day was incredible! The port, the mountains and city--complete with fashion billboards like Times Square. The port made me think of Season 2 of "The Wire" (This is a shout-out to any of my friends and family who are wondering if I was thinking about my favorite show even in Korea--yes! (c;). The fish market made me think of Seattle, WA. The labyrinth of narrow alleys made me think of Diagon Alley from Harry Potter. The street vendors put Shipshewanna to shame with more interesting merchandise and better prices. I found a dress for $10.
We saw lots of people napping and hanging out in the shade. There was a giant bell. Apparently the Koreans are known for their bell-making.
Highlights from the fish market:*Sea slugs or testicle fish--while shooting video of these popular creatures, a man reached down and squeezed one and it squirt Mark and me. It caught me by surprise and made us both laugh.
*An octopus escaped a large plastic tub and was spanked before being returned to the tub.
*Michael began eating some raw clams which he used to do as a young man growing up in New England--when he offered one to Cynthia as she reached into the bag, a grandpa rushed over to "rescue her" from the danger. He was speaking high-speed Korean--we could only infer that he was trying to convey how unwise eating raw clams could be. He insisted on taking Michael back to the vendor to get some ice for his purchase. Michael threw the bag of clams away at an underground trash can.
We had dinner at a rooster restaurant. The soup was chicken noodle--Korean style. It smelled and tasted somewhat like sea water--so salty. It was delicious!
