Sunday, August 3, 2008

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

13 hours
Dr. Park assembled us at a local cafe one last time for some good-byes. He was hoping for some farewell speeches and made one himself. A few people ventured some thank yous and reflections. I mentioned that many people asked if I was embarking on this trip to Korea with strangers, and I answered, "Pretty much." However, I feel that I will answer this question differently now as each person has changed my life in his or her own way. I also mentioned the contrast between closure and "opening my heart" in a good way.

A group attempted one last trip to Namdaemun. Thank you Carolyn for this picture!! Crinkle dogs!!--> They were all that I hoped they would be!! Yum! I enjoyed chatting with Carolyn and processing our thoughts about leaving Korea. We attempted to look for the splat toys for my nieces, but were unsuccessful in that quest. I took it as a sign that I would need to return to Korea before this toy would lose its charm for them. I consoled myself in the fact that they would never know the hours of fun they were missing. Yet, I would know! (c;

In the airport I had a bulgogi flatbread at Dunkin Donuts--ubiquitous in Korea. I filled up my water bottle with the water fountain. David reminded us on the 1st day that Korea is not a 3rd world country. The water is fine. That's all the convincing I needed. I didn't get sick.

As the plane took off, I began to think of the last time I left Korea--with Mom and Dad and Julie. How long it took me to return. My eyes got a little warm. For virtually the next 13 hours I listened to my new iPod (iPhone). I was strangely drawn to listen to "In Christ Alone." This line caught me by surprise and seemed to capture the trip--all of the past, the present and future combined:

From life's first cry to final breath,
Jesus commands my destiny.
No pow'r of hell, no scheme of man,
Can ever pluck me from His hand;

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

The DMZ
Our InKAS volunteer waited on the 15th floor--in the "lobby"--for us for about 40 minutes while we waited on the ground floor near the front doors. When we finally connected, he put us in a taxi headed to the Lotte Hotel where we were to meet up with the bus tour that would take us to the DMZ. We were surprised that he had come all that way to just load us in a taxi--it was Tamiko, Jen S, Jenny D and me. Lisa found out that Holt found her file--it was lost at the time of the agency visit the day before--so she decided not to join us at the last minute and spend the day instead with other InKAS volunteers who would pamper her with a new hair style. (c;

We arrived at the hotel at 9:55 a.m. for a bus that was scheduled to pull out at 10 a.m. No one seemed concerned or in the least bit alarmed.

Note: We began to call the elevators at Casaville, our hotel, Elevator Purgatory. This was prompted by the slow, full capacity cars that slipped by your floor more often than not or took you in the wrong direction frequently leaving you in transit for 5-10 minutes (Thanks to Mark for this picture!!). With no stairs immediately available the elevator was the only means to travel between the 15 floors. Yet, without cell phones, connecting each of us, this slow travel was a means of the fortuitous chance encounter.

The DMZ tour bus was air conditioned and comfortable as we began our journey on the hottest day of the year in Korea. No seriously! I was relieved to hear this, because if it wasn't--I couldn't imagine surviving anything hotter! Our tour guide told us that we chose "best day" to go to the DMZ since it was so clear, not smoggy. That is so Korean!! "Best day" of course!!

The first tour guide spoke on and on in Korean. Jenny wondered, "What is she saying?" and then predicted that when the English speaker spoke, all that would be translated would be "We're headed to the DMZ." I had to laugh. In fact, our tour guide was an adorable ajima (grandma) who called herself, <---Laura. She reminded us to have our passports ready and please make sure we did not have surgery so our face matched the picture. Giggling at her own joke only made it all the more endearing. She let us know several times that if anyone had alcohol for lunch at the restaurant, the tour--both buses--would have to turn around and be sent back.

We learned about how Korea was divided. It all happened as a result of the remnant of the Cold War between the US and USSR. They compromised by splitting the country at the 38th parallel and the Soviets could pick the leader for the North and the US could pick the leader for the South. This seemed to settle things until the North launched a surprise attack in the summer and captured most of South Korea. They pushed the South Koreans down to Pusan. Sixteen nations came to the aid of the South and pushed the North back up past the 38th parallel. A significant date in this maneuver was November 25. I was heartened to hear that my birthday was chosen as possibly a significant day in South Korean history.

China came to the aid of the North Koreans and pushed the border back down around the 38th again. Several journalists were killed in this war. We visited a memorial to the journalists and soldiers.

The whole tour had the feel of a class field trip. We were told when to use the "washrooms," to stand in 2 straight lines, to sit and not stand in the bus, to remain in assigned seats, when to take pictures and when not, and the time when we absolutely needed to re-board the bus. We were told to remember the number on the front of the bus: 1229.

We learned that South Korea school children write letters to North Korean children and leave them on a fence near the border (not AT the border as Laura made sure we understood). These letters tell of how these children would love to play with their North Korean friends, but they can't right now because Korea is divided.

Some restrictions included:
*No alcohol at lunch, as mentioned--but bears repeating (c;
*English speakers must sit in chairs since others complained the floor hurt their back (on previous tours)
*No gum chewing
*No hand gestures at the border
*No standing behind a South Korean soldier or he will not be able to save you if a North Korean were to grab you from behind

Laura: "The South Korean soldiers are standing for our protection."

If you point or gesture at the North Korean border, the North will take your picture and use it for propaganda purposes. We just hoped that we weren't pestered by a bug at the wrong moment and have to swipe wildly at it only to have our gestures misinterpreted by the North Koreans standing only a few 100 feet away.

We were able to "enjoy taking pictures" at several stops. We learned about the 2 freedom villages--one each for North and South. They had competing flag poles--with the North taking the height category and the South claiming the weight. Apparently, the North Korean village is a facade only. It is meant to show how prosperous the North is, but no one actually lives there.

Some area farmers in South Korea are paid $80,000 tax free to work the rice fields around the DMZ. They are families from the area. While they work, they are heavily guarded and have a curfew of midnight.

The whole trip was sad and comical because it was so deceitful and damaging for the North Korean who live the nightmare of no freedom. Amazingly. by contrast, the rules were over the top comical for Americans. It was "somical." We imagined a Seinfeld episode in which the characters break the rules one by one with Kramer ending up as a chalk line along the border.

I almost set my camera down in the room that straddles the border and I accidentally touched a chair. The guards were standing as wax figures without acknowledging anyone's presence. It was freaky! We were issued badges before going to the JSA (Joint Security Area). We were able to view North Korean guards across the way. It felt surreal!

More DMZ Fun Facts:
  • This land has become a wildlife sanctuary to over 300 species with scientists coming from all over the world to study it.
  • The CDC (Centers for Disease Control) recommends malaria pills for travelers to the DMZ. The bugs at the border are HUGE! Tip: Do not take these on an empty stomach.
  • Children under the age of 11 years may not visit the border.
  • No firearms may be taken to the border. Who knew? (c;
  • The tour guides took turns between Korean, English and Japanese.
  • Our passports were examined twice by 2 different soldiers. One of the passengers caused a scuffle and conversation among the soldiers, but nothing seemed to come of it.
  • The South Korean soldiers wear sun glasses so that North Korean soldiers do not know where they are looking.
  • The soldiers also seemed to have something sewn into the cuffs of their pants--tiny ball bearings?--that made a shwishing sound when they walked.
  • Our tour guide actually cheered when we left that no one had gotten injured--either by a North Korean soldier or by a stray land mine. We were not aware that stray land mines were a possibility until we had to sign a waiver indicating that we were aware of this danger.

We returned to Casaville just in time to join the group who was leaving for the musical comedy, Jump, a spoof on martial arts movies. The performers were so gifted--martial artists, comedians and actors. We especially enjoyed the tech support guy with Harry Potter glasses who dramatically transformed into a vicious ninja when his glasses were removed.

Our plane leaves tomorrow at 7 p.m. It's hard to believe everything that has been packed into each day.

Monday, July 28, 2008

Agency Day!
We left for Holt. I was telling myself to expect nothing--in fact, I had brought a library book to read while the others were meeting with their social workers, but I should have steeled myself or another loss.

The social worker started out by saying, "You were found in April 1971." I mentioned that I was told it was June. He replied, "Does that look like a 4 or 6 to you. Probably a 6." Then when he mentioned that we had the same papers, that there was nothing new, he asked if I had any questions. I had one, "Do you know the name of my foster mother?"

He told me that the space for the name of a foster mom was blank in my database file. In reality, nobody is completely sure where I lived for about 1 month. However, the Holt social worker is positive I was living in an orphanage in Pusan. My papers indicate I was in a hospital in Seoul a month before being adopted. My parents were told I was living with a foster family for about 2-3 weeks before I came to live with them.

I suddenly got irrate and wondered why my parents were mislead. The social worker kept insisting that they misunderstood that the person who had brought me to them was not a foster mother, but someone who worked at the office and my parents just thought she was the foster mother. Why would my parents believe this if it wasn't told to them? They remember this person crying when she handed them the baby.

Why had the worker in Busan indicated that I had only lived there for 20 days? My Holt social worker was a man in his late 20s or early 30s--pictured below--so I was unnerved by his patronizing. He said, "I know you want to meet your foster mother." I told him it was not about meeting a foster mother, I was more concerned that the papers were sketchy. Since it was my life we were discussing, I was really more about the truth of what happened to me when I was a baby. I wondered if that made sense to him. He replied, "I can understand how you might feel that way." Aggravating.

It felt like Korea was doing its best to scratch holes in my adoption story--rip it to shreds with only a sick baby left in a park after dark under the rubble after it settled.

I got a little crafty with my social worker when I asked him to translate the police report. He didn't know I had already had the translation from someone else--thank you Sally and Mary!! The social worker labeled the man who found me as a "climber"--which Dr. Park later clarified as a "hiker"--but neglected to translate his name, age and address. When I pressed him on these details, he claimed that the grammar and handwriting on that section was difficult for him to read.

It was difficult for me to understand what was being covered up or hidden and why. I'm even more convinced that to be strong under the weight of difficult truth is a form of survival as well. Why look under rocks if you're not prepared to see what's there? I guess, I'm not fully convinced the journey is worth it--but now that I've arrived, I'm justifying it as a way to get out from under the manipulation and illusion. To not remain a child who believes in comforting lies. However, I'm not sure it's enough.

We held some babies in the nursery. I was bracing myself for that, but it felt oddly like being in a church nursery. It was difficult to conceive of them being abandoned or without a family. Yet we were in post-adoption services so they might have been "claimed." Very healthy. Many of them seemed connected to the caregivers. It didn't have an institutional feeling that I viscerally imagined.

My social worker and I arrived late for the lunch. While the rest of the group sat at one long table--including Katie and Jessica who were sharing lunch with their foster mothers, we were ushered to our own table which felt awkward after the file review. But things had taken a turn when he saw me dab my eyes after putting drops in before we had left for the restaurant. He seemed to go into a consolation mood and wanted to be kinder. But it felt calculated. I tried to keep the conversation pleasant--which is much easier than not. We had a lovely meal of bulgogi, kimchi, sweet rice soup and rice. My social worker said that we were their honored guests which also felt a tad disingenuous. He spoke of having lived abroad, specifically about living in Australia. He told me to let my sister know that he enjoyed visiting the Great Ocean Road with his ex-girlfriend. My sister is moving to Australia next week.

He also mentioned that he was a businessman for awhile before he had the courage to be a social worker--which was his degree. He explained he needed courage because social work does not pay as well. He used to work with runaway teens. He would visit Namdaemun and other popular teen hang-outs looking for youth to connect with and talk to.

During this difficult time, in stark contrast, Carol was meeting her birth father for the first time. It's so amazing to consider how different our stories can be.

Our translator and volunteer from InKAS, Jenny, was really funny!! So lively! She told us she wanted a husband for only 2 years so her parents would stop bugging her. She was would tell the man that it was for only 2 years and then he would be free! She also wants to marry a blue-eyed white guy too.

When we got back to the hotel, I felt raw and a bit angry. I journaled and happened to go down to the lobby as the group from Eastern was returning and people were assembling to go to a palace and shopping. The girls from Eastern returned with some frustrating stories as well. It's as if new information was given, and then when pressed, more information was withheld.

Chris Winston's perspective seems to be that the agencies like to manipulate adoptees and their parents for the pure sense of control. Allison also met her birth family this day and the other girls saw the family waiting in the lobby while Allison was waiting upstairs. They felt weird about that. It was difficult for me to imagine having such significant moments of people's lives as a part of your 9-to-5 job . . . as I considered the adoption workers who were servicing each agency.

At the palace, we took lots of pictures in the blinding heat and humidity. We then left for Insedun where Mark asked Jen Strong and I to help him find gifts for our fearless leaders: Chris, Dr. Park and Carolyn. I found some screens for my family and had their last names written on them in hangul.

Finally--we left for Namdaemun--anticipating crinkle dogs (hot dogs covered in fries and deep fried) and placemats as promised by others who had been to Namdaemun and back. We arrived at 8 p.m. to find the shops starting to close and no crinkle dogs!! Our Namdaemun experience was compromised by hunger and disappointment!! Mark remained optimistic until the very end when it became obvious that we would not find what we were looking for . . . it was Mark, Jen Strong, Jenny D, Linda and me trekking through nameless alley after alley in search of what we could not find. The rabbit warren failed to deliver.

We finally split up and miraculously regrouped at a restaurant. Jenny and I had some mandu. I noticed the waitress was getting her a wet cloth and I wanted one too. When I politely ventured a "Yobasayo" to get her attention, this mom-ish lady mimicked me in an endearingly mock by repeating, "Yobasayo" with an exaggerated plea. I guess, you're supposed to say this word with more command.

At 10 p.m., exhausted and somewhat disillusioned, we vowed to try to revisit Namdaemun the day our plane left. We made a pact to have a taste of the now mythical crinkle dogs before leaving Korean soil!

Sunday, July 27, 2008

When I woke up, I felt like I wanted to visit Seoul Foreign School where Mom and Dad had taught for a couple years and where they lived when they adopted me and had Julie. Dr. Park once again agreed to go with me on a journey to my past. He said, "We have a date" (c; when we decided to go at breakfast.

At a brisk pace, we went up a hill and down and then another, asking for directions all the way. So HOT! So HUMID! We found it at the top of a hill with Chicago Pizza as its marker. I found it funny since Mom and Dad live in Illinois now. The guard would not let me take pictures inside, but I had taken several outside. Apparently, the former prime minister of Korea had been there exercising and there were security concerns. 

We left for the Korean folk village at 10:30 a.m. Some of the others went shopping instead. The village depicted life only 40-50 years before. June said she remembered using some of the tools to sift rice from its husk when she lived in Korea. She was adopted when she was 10 years old. Dr. Park remembered his farm house to be just like the one shown only smaller. Wow! 

When we were looking at souvenirs, a lady grabbed Jenny's hair and twisted it into a chopstick ornament. Jenny was unexpectedly cooler and also even more sophisticated at the same time. She was sold on the ornate hair piece! Later we wondered if we should purchase a scroll or key chains at the folk village or at Namdaemun. Namdaemun is an outdoor flea market famous for its discount prices and loads of merchandise. We kept saying: 
  • Scroll? Namdaemun! 
  •  Purse? Namdaemun! 
  •  World Peace? Namdaemun! 
We caught a show that included folk drums, traditional see-saw girls, and a tight rope walker. My Korean pride was awakened a bit. It's difficult to feel connected to this ancient culture when you are a citizen of the United States.

Later we were barely able to board the bus because it was packed, but Linda came and rescued us as she had already boarded. The Nelson-Kennedy family sprinted to board while Dr. Park held the bus for them as well. The door kept opening and closing indecisively. 

On the train ride home, Michael, Aengus and I began remembering favorite scenes from "The Office" and were shushed as we were laughing out loud. 

We went to dinner with Korean adoptees including Jane Jeong Trenka of The Language of Blood. Nicole and Nari, Korean adoptees living in Korea, also came. Carolyln, Jen, Christy and I laughed and laughed. We were thinking of ways to demand a discount at Namdaemun, to avoid the English speaking "mark up." 

"Hey, this country robbed us of our names and birthdays! We're reclaiming them with a mandatory 50% discount!"

We also heard that the Sesame Street song "Not like the others" was deemed inappropriate after some transracial adoptees protested. When 3 pieces of fruit and a ball were displayed, we wondered if someone cried, "I felt like the ball!!"

After dinner, my host family dropped off my hot rollers!! So kind!

When we were discussing who would be joining in on Allison's birthday celebration, someone observed, "None of the older group is going." Allison quickly stated, "Jackie's going!" I immediately pointed out that the packet of tissues and the hand sanitizer in my purse would beg to differ. Older? Really?! (c; 

We ended up at Mike's Cabin for drinks--a bar formerly owned by a Korean adoptee from Wisconsin named Mike. He happened to stop by later in the evening and spoke at length about US economic policy. We toasted Allison's 23rd birthday with Lemon Drop shots! Delicious! 

The shot glasses were more like juice glasses. We danced, and the song of the evening was Low by Flo Rida. It was also fun to hear from Nicole. This group of KADs (Korean Adoptees) living in Korea feels like an exclusive club with survival instincts, an iron will, passion, tragedy, tenacity, coolness, and an ability to network. It reminded me somehow, of my Teach for American corps, for some reason. 

I followed Jess and Katie home at 1:30 a.m. Jessica wasn't feeling well. The others stayed and partied a little longer.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

I started the day listening to "Fast Train" by Solomon Burke. I began to think about how sad it was to be nameless and birthday-less for a few days possibly. Listening to the song, it felt like I was a part of a cosmic angst (Han) or loss that shifts us and tosses us for a time and then moves us forward. Yet, it still feels really sad and lonely and kind of violent. 

 When I was ready to tell my story, what I had discovered, to others at braekfast, the telling felt more comforting and protective all at once. Pat started to cry. 

 The fruit and bread in the Winstons room was fabulous. We headed to do some shopping afterward. I found some t-shirts for my family. Mary, George, Aengus, Carol, Mark and I waited until 11 a.m. for the Basic House to open. It was like a Korean Gap. We found some t-shirts that commemorated the Olympics with some hangul characters used to make figures representing different summer olympic sports. We had lunch at a McDonald's. I justified it with the fact that we had bulgogi burgers. Yum! We felt bad for Michael who wasn't feeling well at all. 

 We left for the train station to return to Seoul. Our stay in Pusan was over. Our team of four--June, Jen, Jenny and I sat together. We chatted with Mary, Aengus and George. It was raining. We heard that Tamiko had arrived in Seoul on Friday and was awaiting our arrival there. I was looking forward to meeting my roommate! She had gotten the dates and times confused and arrived at O'Hare 12 hours after our plane had left. Devastating, but she was pressing on. 

As soon as we got back, our host family's husband, Mike, was there to pick up Jenny and me. Tamiko and I introduced ourselves and then I was off to have dinner with a Korean family. On the way to the apartment, Mike spoke a lot about housing prices--Jenny works in the mortgage business back in Minneapolis. He also mentioned that his wife wasn't a good cook. 

When we arrived at the parking garage it was a comedy act as Jenny and I ransacked our bags for the gifts and gift bags with tissue paper to prepare the host family's gift. Unbeknownst to me at the time, my hot rollers were lost in the shuffle. Yikes! 

We went upstairs in a big high rise apartment building to meet Mike's wife and 1-year-old son, Chun-ha which means "he's going to be rich." His name was selected with the help of Chun-ha's grandparents. Mike told us that on Chun-ha's first birthday, he reached for the money, which also predicts wealth. Koreans put a plate of different symbols in front of babies on their first birthday to see what they reach for, which they believe predicts their future. Mike told us some parents have been putting a gavel (lawyer), a stethoscope (doctor) and a computer mouse (ITT) on the plate as well as the more traditional items. 

Soon, Mike's brother, Ed arrived. Ed is leaving for the University of Maryland on August 4, 2008. We discussed the perceptions of Asians in the US, car and housing prices, cell phone rates, etc. The family spoke perfect English. The 2 brothers had lived in Seattle for awhile when they were in middle school and they had also lived in England and other places around the world.

We had bulgogi ground beef burgers, teriaki chicken with potatoes and carrots, pancakes, zucchinis decorated with a carrot flower and parsley leaf, salad with homemade carrot dressing and rice. We started out with cold cucumber soup which is delicious. When we asked for the recipe, the wife told us she bought a soup packet for cold noodle soup at the grocery store. (c; 

When we exchanged gifts, Jenny brought a cool stuffed loon (official bird of MN) that gave a loon call when pressed. Chun-ha began a frightened crying jag after a stunned silence. We were surprised and felt bad. We ended the evening with a tour of Seoul given by Ed while he drove us back to the hotel. I almost fell asleep.

After we got back at almost midnight, Tamiko and I introduced ourselves more fully. I started to look for Allison since it was her birthday. We were planning to go out, but most people had gone to bed. We talked for a bit in her room and then we agreed to go out on Sunday. To be continued . . .

Friday, July 25, 2008, Part 2

The Kindness of Strangers
On the way down the steep mountain where we had visited the temple, we met a lady---> whom Dr. Park inquired where the bus stop was. She immediately dropped everything and had us jump the bus line. She boarded the bus with the map from the welfare agency in hand. She directed the bus driver to where we should go. Finally, she disembarked at the next stop and boarded our next bus and again stayed up by the driver to instruct him as to where to go. I gave her a Holland, MI keychain to thank her for the 30 minutes of her life she gave to me and my journey. Incredible!
When we got off the bus, Dr. Park seemed to know we had to go to a social welfare center again. When we arrived, at the one room office, with rows of desks and bureaucracy, we were immediately ushered to some chairs at a round table in the back and the manager gave us his full attention. Again, after the sad curious look, the man seemed to pick up our inquiry into the identity of the man who found me as a personal mission. 

He began making phone calls. He finds out the address Mr. Shin gave so many years ago was a residence that has been replaced by an apartment building. Then he proceeds to contact the current residents to see if they have any information about the previous owners, leaving a message on their phone as they are most likely at work. 

He offered to walk us to the police station and he stopped to speak to some elderly people to ask if they had heard of an 81 year old man named, Mr. Shin. After some conversation we arrived at the police station. When the doors opened to reveal the inside of the police station, it was like a flashback. A cold case memory capture. It was exactly as I pictured it would be--to the details of the background postings and the bulletin board and the clock. Eerie!

The local chief stopped to discuss my case with Dr. Park and the manager from the agency. The chief suggested we go to the district office to file a formal inquiry about Mr. Shin. They are all very kind yet also business-like. The original social agency man directs us to the park where I was found.

We climb a hill and find it at the top. I have no memory of it. It feels unfamiliar. I was found right outside this park. It is different than I imagined, however. I was thinking it would be a park like Central Park in New York--heavily trafficked and used as a place where a country person could go and get lost in the crowd. Yet, the park is a small park in a relatively quaint mountain village, in my estimation.

I snap some pictures of some local men playing Korean chess. In the spirit of the day, Dr. Park and I are invited to join them on some cast-off living room furniture to talk about our adventure. One man takes a shine to Dr. Park and tells him all about how he has family in the US. He asks me several times to take his picture. I finally show him the ones I've taken.

We then look for a taxi to take us to the district police office downtown. We find the taxi driver to be a man in his 70s hoping to retire at 85 without a pension but rental property that may sustain him and his wife. Dr. Park sympathizes with him. 

Once downtown, we find a smart helpful police officer who takes our information about Mr. Shin and puts it into a central database. She finds there is no one by this name currently living in Busan. 

There are, however, 7 people with that name in all of Korea. I find out later from Dr. Park that this officer is going to send other officers to each Mr. Shin asking if he is the one who found a baby in the Dong Rae park 30 years ago. Given his age, none of us has much hope he is still alive. Yet, Dr. Park leaves his email address in case any information is found so the office can contact him in Korean. It could takes months, if at all. 

I am reminded of the story when Simeon and Anna are waiting in their old age to see Jesus before they die, as promised. Only, I don't feel like Jesus nor would suggest that Mr. Shin Hong Jeun would at all anticipate hearing from me like these two biblical figures. 

However, Dr. Park did mention that the Korean last name chosen for me, Hong, was not common. To find out that it was part of the name of the man who found me is a significant connection. 

Somehow seeing the mountainous area I was found and the friendly people, I am more likely to think of my birth circumstances as the real life part of a tragic story, rather than a fairy tale tragedy. I did scan faces in Dong Rae and felt I saw glimpses of similar features. Yet again, it's difficult for me to remember what I look like since I don't make a habit of studying the mirror. I am overwhelmed by the kindness I've been shown throughout the day. 

Many people have asked if I was seeking closure on this trip. I think it's the opposite. I HAD closure when I didn't think about my first few months of life or Korea. The trip has been more like an opening. I feel I need to be authentic. I am less a single lost mythic orphan and more one of thousands of lost children. It's both heart-breaking and more anonymous, but also less precious, more real. Someone may wonder why it's so painful to hear that your birthday and what you thought was a birth name are made up in a bureaucratic paper shuffle--but it's not only less cherished, but it's also a sense of "You lied to me." Betrayal.  I wonder what happened to each of the 500-600 babies that were found and brought to the social welfare center. I thought later to ask the man at the original place if any others had returned. 

Mark H went out of his way to return from the beach to hear my story from the day's journey. We ran into Lisa. Dr. Park and I had dinner with Mark and Lisa. We barbecued bacon and had more kimchi and cold noodle soup. 

I'm finding that telling about my more random name and birthday is really painful. I haven't cried about this loss yet. All the kindness of strangers, new friends and family in the US is such an untold blessing! 

The Nelson-Kennedy family were so sweet in their inquiry about my adventures in Busan as well. I also appreciated the several offers of fellow adoptees to take the journey with me. I so appreciated Dr. Park's devotion, translation and support for one entire day!! What a gift! 

 At the end of each day, you end up feeling like a slick salty seal due to the humidity and heat. The downpour that began on our walk back to the hotel was welcome relief! Soggy red bean sherbet--red beans and fruit over sweet milky shaved ice--was my dessert. I had no American food for an entire day. I fell into bed exhausted.

Friday, July 25, 2008, Part 1


I visit the Social Welfare Center in Busan where I went right after I was found in a park in Dongrae. Here are the questions I have for the people there:
  • Where is the park where I was found? Answered.
  • Why did I go up to Seoul? Was it because I was sick? Not answered fully.
  • How long was I at the orphanage? Answered, but later disputed.
  • Is there more information about the man who found me? No, but to be continued, potentially.
  • Were there a lot of babies in the orphanage at the time? Answered.
  • If my name and birthday were pinned to me, how much of an attempt was there made to find out who left me at the park? Answered.
  • Are the children still housed in this facility? Answered.
Dr. Park translated. He found out in conversation with the man who was working at the Social Welfare Center, that between 1967-1989, roughly 500-600 babies were found each year. About 16,000 babies went through the agency and the babies generated thousands of dollars. Not much attempt was made to find birth families or research why the babies were abandoned. 

The man said I was at the center for about 20 days, but that the original place where I stayed has burned down. There is a new building behind the office where we met that I can see. I see no babies there when we visit. But the worker mentions that due to the new Korean policy of reducing international adoptions by 10% each year, there are more and more babies that grow up in orphanages in Korea and that they have a difficult time finding jobs when they graduate so they must go to "rehab" in the mean time. 

****************************************************** 

You know when you smell something bad or just get a hint of it? You have a choice of whether to breathe in more deeply, to make sure of what it is, or you can breathe more shallow to avoid it altogether. I wondered if researching a painful past is like that or like finally taking a look at a wound healed badly and asking that it be medically examined re-opened and healed more cleanly. The scar remains, but it's more deliberate, possibly any infection has been cleaned out and you can move on. I have many questions about the value of uncovering painful adoption information.

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I found out that part of my adoption story is a lie. It felt like someone ripping my teddy bear away or acknowledging that it was only old stuffing, dirty fur and plastic disks for eyes. I found out my birth name and birthday were not pinned to me. They are unknown. The orphanage made them up. They guessed my age. It was a matter of processing paper work and making money. Dr. Park spoke of feeling anger when the adoption worker spoke of the profit angle surrounding the abandoned babies. 

Note: My birthday, November 25, was significant to my parents as this is the exact day they first visited an orphanage while living in Korea. When they saw it on my papers, it immediately gave them the sign they were looking for in selecting me, rather than another girl. They had been presented with the choice between the 2 of us. It always felt like a connection between my birth parents and my parents. My parents also almost named me, Nancy, as my birth name was presented to them as "Hong, Ran Soo."

The social welfare man printed out a map to the location where I was found in Dongrae. At this point, this map launched a whole "Law and Order' episode-type aura--as we began our quest to locate information about the man who found me in the park, Mr. Shin Hong Kyoon. This social welfare center was the first location / time black screen with the distinctive punctuation, "BA-bong!" 

Here is a transcript of the information from the police report taken at the time I was brought to a police station: 

 "The baby was found on the 10th of June 1971 at 10:30 p.m. The place found for the first time was at the front of Keum Kang Park (Geumgang Park). The climber (hiker) named Mr. Shin Hong Kyoon was at the age of 44 years old. His address was #335 Onchun-dong, Dongrae-ku (Dongnae-gu). He found the baby. He was referred to the Dongrae Police." 

 At the same time, when Dr. Park was explaining in Korean about my status as an adoptee, I received sympathetic looks of curiosity or in some cases avoidance of eye contact / shame from every listener. I felt like a child or someone who was diagnosed with a terrible disease. It had the feeling of being lead from office to office in a hospital, chasing a diagnosis or treatment plan. Each person feeling helpless and sad, and wanting to be candid yet helpful.

We were off to Dongrae. But before Dongrae, we decided to stop at the temple which was the next train stop. There we ran into the rest of our group and surprised them as they were expecting us to be far away on our mission. We were plunged into the Korea from which I had formerly not felt culture shock: 
  •   
  • Squattie potties (Thanks to June for this picture!) 
  • Buddhist practices 
  • Hunger, satisfied with food I wold not have ordered on my own, a free temple meal of vegetarian bee-bim-bop, chilled water soup with seaweed and julienned cucumbers 
  • A cafeteria that smelled like the sea at low tide 
  • Ancient gates and legends 
  • Steep stone steps to prayer rooms 
  • Translations that Dr. Park would kindly relay even if the phrases were originally spoken or written in English 
  • Meeting a young traveler from Taiwan who was incorporated into our 45-minute tour given by a generous Temple volunteer. 
 To be continued . . .